Clothing in Mexica society was a powerful marker of social class, and the Mexica had a sophisticated system of sumptuary laws that regulated who could wear what. The sumptuary laws were designed to reinforce the social distinctions of Mexica society, and they specified the clothing, the jewelry, and the cosmetics that could be worn by the various social ranks. The sumptuary laws were enforced by the market officials and by the local authorities, and violations were punished with fines, with the confiscation of the offending items, and sometimes with slavery.
The Clothing of the Nobility
The nobility of Mexica society, the pipiltin, wore the most elaborate and most expensive clothing in the Mexica state. The pipiltin wore cotton garments, which were imported from the Gulf Coast, and they decorated their clothing with elaborate embroidery and with feathers from tropical birds, particularly the quetzal. The pipiltin also wore the most elaborate jewelry, including ear spools, lip plugs, necklaces, and ankle bands made of gold, silver, and jade.
The basic garment of the Mexica man was a loincloth, called a maxtlatl, and a cloak, called a tilmatli. The tilmatli of the pipiltin was typically made of fine cotton and decorated with embroidery and feathers. The tilmatli was tied over one shoulder, and it could be worn in a variety of ways. The pipiltin also wore distinctive headdresses, called the xiuhuitzontli, which were decorated with feathers and gold ornaments.
The Clothing of the Commoners
The common people of Mexica society, the macehualtin, wore simpler clothing than the nobility. The macehualtin wore garments made of maguey fiber or rough cotton, and they did not have access to the elaborate embroidery and feathers that were reserved for the pipiltin. The macehualtin also wore simpler jewelry, and they were not allowed to wear gold or jade ornaments.
The basic garment of the Mexica commoner man was a loincloth and a cloak made of maguey fiber. The cloak of the commoners was typically undyed, and it was tied over one shoulder. The commoner women wore a long skirt, called a cueitl, and a blouse, called a huipil, both made of maguey fiber. The clothing of the commoners was functional rather than decorative, and it was designed to withstand the rigors of daily work.
The Sumptuary Laws
The Mexica had a system of sumptuary laws that regulated who could wear what, and the laws were enforced by the market officials and by the local authorities. The most important sumptuary restrictions were on cotton clothing, on jewelry, and on cosmetics. Cotton was a luxury item that was imported from the Gulf Coast, and only the nobles and the wealthy commoners could afford it. The use of cotton was regulated by law, and commoners were forbidden from wearing cotton garments.
The use of featherwork was also regulated, and the most prestigious feathers were reserved for the Tlatoani and for the high priests. The use of gold and jade jewelry was also regulated, and only the nobles and the wealthy commoners were allowed to wear the most elaborate pieces.
The Survival of the Sumptuary Tradition
Many elements of the Mexica sumptuary tradition have survived in the traditional dress of the modern Mexican population. The traditional dress of the indigenous communities, with its bright colors, its elaborate embroidery, and its distinctive designs, is a direct descendant of the Mexica tradition, and it continues to be a powerful marker of social and cultural identity.
The modern Mexican dress is also influenced by the Mexica tradition in other ways. The use of the rebozo, a long shawl that is worn by women, is derived from the Mexica tilmatli. The use of the sarape, a long cloak that is worn by men, is also derived from the Mexica tilmatli. The traditional Mexican hat, the sombrero, is also a descendant of the Mexica tradition.
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